Chapter 1 ยท Beginnings
The kitchen in Flatbush
The kitchen in Flatbush was small enough that you could touch every wall without taking a step. My mother stood at the stove from five in the morning until nine at night, and somehow the sauce was always different on Sundays. She never wrote anything down. When I asked her, years later, for the recipe, she looked at me like I had asked her for the recipe for breathing.
I learned, eventually, that her seasoning was grief. My uncle had died in the war, and she cooked as though she were still feeding him. Every pot was a letter she could not send.
I did not understand this until I had children of my own, and found myself making her sauce for them on the anniversary of her death, weeping into the basil.